Electrical System

I've had several questions about the electrical system in Gurkin.    The modifications that I've made allow operation off of a combination of 12V DC  and/or when available, 115V AC.  

Here's a quick description of how the setup works with some photos to help demonstrate how it all fits together.  

The heart of the system is the house battery that is located beneath the drivers seat.  The battery is charged whenever the the vehicle is running and is then isolated from the starter battery when the engine is turned off.   This isolation is provided by a relay that is also located beneath the driver's seat.   The house battery has its own fuse panel beneath the driver's seat that is connected to the refrigerator outlet at the rear of the driver's seat, the  12V outlets on either side of the rear seat, the 12V outlet to the right in the rear storage area and the  fluorescent lights above the passenger area.    It does not power the radio, 12V dash outlet or any other interior lights in the vehicle.   Those are still powered off of the starter battery so be careful about running those items while camping.  You'll be looking for a set of jumper cables.    It is possible to jump the starter from the house battery but drawing down a starter type battery to a "dead" state will often make it unusable and in need of replacement.   I decided to replace the starter battery with an Optima battery that is designed to provide starting power and house battery power just to provide a margin of safety if I inadvertently leave something on that's drawing from the starter battery.  

The batteries that I've installed are below:  

Starter Battery:

You'll notice that the vendors say it doesn't fit but it in fact fits perfectly in the stock position and provides some added peace of mind.  

https://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteries-8040-218-YellowTop-Purpose/dp/B000MSDKMA

House Battery and hold down strap:

https://m.interstatebatteries.com/search/SLA1180

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4508&category_id=337&category_parent_id= 

I have connected three items to the house battery:

A solar controller:

A battery tender:

A 12V to 115V Inverter:

and connecting cables and fuses:  

3ft 0-Gauge cables and  1ft 0-Gauge cable:

Fuse Holder and Fuses:  

The inverter is wired to the house battery as follows.   The red 1ft cable is connected to the positive terminal. One terminal of the fuse holder with fuse is connected to the other end.   The red 3ft cable is connected to the other fuse holder terminal.  The other end is connected to the positive terminal on the inverter.    The black 3ft cable is connected directly from the negative terminal on the battery to the negative terminal on the inverter.   I had to drill a 1.5" hole in the side of the seat base with a step drill to pass the cables through.  

The solar controller's battery outputs are connected to the positive and negative terminals on the battery.  

The battery tender's 115V AC input is connected to the rear reflector AC plug and its outputs are connected to the positive and negative terminals on the battery.

When the van is parked where 115V AC is available I connect a surge suppressor to the source and then connect the cord behind the reflector to the suppressor.    I carry a 15ft 12-Gauge cord to make the run from the suppressor to the connection on the van.   I also carry a 50A to 30A adapter and a 30A to 15A adapter to be ready for sites that don't offer 15A outlets.  

When connected in this fashion to 115V AC the outlet that has replaced the ashtray is available for direct connection of 115V AC appliances and the battery tender is providing a continuous 4A 12V current to the house battery which is providing power to all of its devices.  

When 115V AC is not available for extended stays I connect the solar panel to the solar input on the controller.    The controller charges the battery with about a 3A current on a normal day.   In bright sun I've seen it output up to 6A.  

All of the additional devices I've attached are connected to the device output on the solar controller so that I can monitor the draw and the health of the house battery.   At present those additional devices are the Dometic 12V Refrigerator, the 12V sink water pump and a 12V 10" portable fan.    

In my configuration all of the mentioned devices are attached to the kitchen pod that I built to replace the rear-facing seat behind the driver.  I'll cover the pod in a future post.    

Happy camping!  

Solar Array and Tent Canvas

Several folks asked me about some of the modifications I'd made to Siduri.  Some info on those mods follows:


Solar Array

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GGX-ENERGY-DIY-Portable-Folding-100W-18V-Monocrystalline-Solar-Panel-Charger-Bag-for-Laptop-12V-Battery/32808889330.html?spm=2114.search0104.8.80.49ZCCj

The array was connected to a solar controller that was mounted to the kitchen pod behind the driver's seat.    The controller's battery output  was connected to the house battery under the seat and it's device output was connected to a small outlet strip that was mounted to the rear of the kitchen pod.    The faucet/shower water pump, a dual cigarette lighter adapter and the Dometic fridge cooler were plugged in to the strip.  

New Tent Canvas

http://shop.cavevan.com/collections/eurovan/products/replacement-tent-fabric-for-westfalia-weekender?variant=15793717571

I ordered this top as it has been modified with a smaller diameter 1/8" rope piping.  Other vendors sell the same top with a 1/4" rope piping which is larger that the original top and makes reinstallation very difficult.   As far as I can tell all of the aftermarket tops that are available are made by one source,  ACME Auto Headliners out of California.  
The canvas is easy to remove and reinstall.    Here are a few pointers:

1. Open the top and remove the front upper bed board.  I found it helpful to put a towel on the leading edge of the top and then open it while in a carport so that the top hit the ceiling and could not fully open.   Doing so took the tension off the canvas during removal and installation.   Any trellis or tree limb at the right height could perform the same function.

2.   Mark the metal pieces that hold the canvas to the roof to keep track of where they were located and their orientation.    I marked mine with a sharpie as front, rear, right and left with an arrow pointing to the front.   It's also helpful to mark the center of the front and rear pieces at this point for later use in reinstalling the top.   Also mark the center of the front and rear of the frame around the roof hole.  

3. Remove the screws that hold the metal pieces to the roof and set the pieces and screws off to the side.  

4.  The bottom of the canvas is held to the roof by a piece of rubber piping that snaps in to a track in the metal frame around the hole.   Look at the center rear of the frame and find the seam where the piping meets.    Pry one side of the piping out of the track and then carefully pull the piping out of the track all the way around the vehicle.   Take your time during this process.  If the piping twists or catches it can break.   Here's a source for the piping if its old or breaks and you need to replace it.

http://www.poptopshop.nl/a-38015431/t4-hefdak/rubber-pees-voor-hefdakdoek-montage/

5.   Slip the old top over the rear and pull to the front to remove (or vice versa).

6.  Take this opportunity to tighten the frame screws and clean around it.   Spray a light coating of silicone spray in to the track when done to make it easier to reinstall the piping.  

7.   Fold the new top to find the center of the top and the bottom at the front and rear.   Mark that center with a sharpie with a 3/4" line so that you'll be able to see it when reinstalling the metal pieces  and piping.  

8.   Slide the new canvas over the top so that the small vent is facing up at the front.  

9.  Starting by mounting the top front of the canvas.    Carefully line up the center lines on the top and the front metal piece.   Place the rope piping in the forward part of the metal frame so that the screw is behind it and does not go through the fabric.   Follow this procedure all along the front piece and tighten the screws enough to secure the canvas but loose enough so that it can be adjusted if necessary.   Repeat this procedure with the rear piece.   Then install the side pieces.    If you have any looseness in the fabric you can adjust it before tightening the brackets to the roof.

10.   Insert the rope piping at the bottom of the canvas in to the track at the rear of the roof hole frame.  Line up the center lines.   Insert the rubber piping in to the track and snap it in to the track to the second ridge.   There are three ridges.  You'll only want to pop the third ridge in to place after the top is lined up properly at the front and rear and you've adjusted for any slack along the sides.   Once your satisfied that everything is lined up, secure the top by popping the third ridge in to place.   I used the tool all the way to the right in the image at the link below to push the piping in to place without damaging it.  The piping should look "flat" without any warps when properly inserted.  

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/trim-moulding/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html

Floydfest  7/27/16 to 8/1/16

My friend Nick and I took Siduri out to Floydfest this past weekend for a stay in V-Dub Village.  We  made some great friends. Charles and Sonja, Hans, Nathan, Bob, Denny, Don, Jack, Debbie, Bonnie and Michael,  I hope you had a safe trip home and hope to see you next year!  The music and venue were terrific.  The weather was great and we only once found ourselves dancing in the rain and thunder to Anders Osborne and Railroad Earth late on Thursday night! We took the long way home on Sunday with stops at two great breweries, Sunken City and Lickinghole Creek.

Here's a shot of V-Dub Village.  Siduri is fifth from the left.  

Nick's palace and lounge to the rear. 

Gurkin (Green 2003), Hans (Silver 2002), Charles and Sonja (White 2001)

View down the hill with the front of Denny's Bus.

View up the hill

Pop-Top Seal Replacement

Yesterday I replaced the pop-top seal with the part below from GoWesty.com.  The gasket part of the seal had started to separate in several locations from the channel the held it to the top.   

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=23360 

I raised the top high enough to place a 12" long piece of 6x6 on its side underneath the front lip of the top to keep it from closing but open enough to remove the old seal.  The old seal had been adhered to the top with a substance that seemed like a type of weatherstrip adhesive.    It took me about an hour on a short step ladder and a lot of rags and mineral spirits to remove the adhesive.  The new seal did not require any adhesive and was easy to install.   I started at the middle of the rear end of the top and found that a light wipe of mineral spirits made pushing the seal on to the top much easier as I moved around the top.    The seal had about 12" of extra length that need ed to be carefully trimmed to ensure a good join with the starting point.

I adjusted the top by loosening the nut at the top of the conical "pin" on the pop-top side of the latch mechanism and turning the pin clockwise until the top was tight. 

The procedure got rid of a few rattles and  some wind noise that I was hearing at highway speeds.

How it began....

This first post is a little lengthy as I've got some catching up to do!

9/21/14
After a great deal of research and hunting I won an auction on eBay for a 2003 Eurovan MV Weekender that was located in Ft. Meyers,  FL.    The van had a good service record and the owner was very forthcoming about any issues that might need attention.

/

9/25/14

The title was transferred to my name.  My Westy was insured and I arranged for it to be picked up by a shipping company for transport to Richmond, VA.   The former owner was very helpful in ensuring that the pickup went smoothly and it was on the way to me on 9/26/14.

9/28/14

The driver called and informed me that he would be unable to deliver the vehicle to my house as there were too many trees showing on Google Street View.   My family and I arranged to meet him at a local mall.   After a few drinks and some appetizers at a local Brio's the call came that he had arrived.  I left my family and went to meet the driver and my new old Westy.  It had arrived in great shape.  I paid the balance for the transport and took my first spin around the parking lot.   All was well except for a noise in the steering system during a hard turn.   

9/29/14

I dropped the vehicle off at my local VW dealer for an initial inspection and major service.   They recommended that the steering rack and tie rod ends be replaced as they were showing some wear.    I had the work done and drove away with my Westy in great working order on 10/2/14.   

9/30/14

Installed my first upgrade for the Westy today.   I found a set of floor mats at  EuroCampers.com and they fit well and look great. 

3836620-140 1 Piece Front Carpet Mat - fits all 2001 - 2003 VW EuroVan MV, Weekender & GLS Models #140 Grey

3836780-140 1 Piece Passenger Area Carpet Floor Mat for 1999 - 2003 VW EuroVan Weekender Models #140 Grey

3836710-140 Cargo Area Carpet Floor Mat fits 1999- 2003VW EuroVan Weekender & MV Models #140 Grey

10/16/14

After hunting through a few blogs I decided to purchase and install a set of new shocks.  I found a great set of instructions on how to perform the installation and ordered a set of Bilstein  shocks for the front and rear.

http://europarts-sd.com/1992-2003shockabsorberkit-bilsteinhd.asp

Rear:

1. Jack up van, put jackstand under it, remove jack.

2. Remove wheel.

3. Support trailing arm with jack (find a good spot to prop it up that doesn't damage anything).

4. Undo shock top-to-body bolt (19mm I think, maybe 18mm) and lower shock to trailing arm bolt (13mm I think, maybe 14mm). The upper bolt tends to be a bit tight so use whatever gives you leverage and it sometimes helps also to use an extension to get your wrench outside the wheel well, although I did snap an extension this way. I have also used the lug wrench handle from the car and slid that over my ratchet as a cheater bar to get more length and leverage.

5. Remove shock.

6. Installation is the reverse of removal, use your jack under the control arm to help line up holes for you to make threading bolts easy. Note any lower doughnuts on the old shock (if they came out w/the shock or if they are still in the control arm). If they're in good shape you can re-use them. If not, buy new ones (inexpensive). Lower shock bolt may or may not be the same size; if new bolts came w/the shock, use the new ones.

Front:

1. Jack up van, put jackstand under it, remove jack.

2. Remove wheel.

3. Prop up suspension assembly so that there's little/no tension on the shock.

5. Remove long lower shock bolt (21 or 22mm I think). It's sleeved so the entire thing isn't threaded. It helps to have a mallet and a screwdriver to help sort of punch it out sometimes or after the nut is off, try to angle your wrench slightly and pull on the bolt as you turn and it'll slide easier.

6. Unbolt upper shock-to-body plate (17 or 18 or 19mm I can't quite remember but something like that). Remove shock and plate together.

7. Remove plate from shock, noting any rubber doughnuts and noting where/how the metal upper shock boot/cover is positioned in the "sandwich" of plate and doughnuts. Buy new doughnuts if they're worn (cheap).

8. Bolt new shock to plate with rubber doughnuts in the same position as before. Also note that the old shock had a metal upper boot/cover most likely and the Bilsteins have a silicon boot, but the Bilsteins do have a large flat washer in lieu of the cover. You must use this washer in the same place as where the old shock's upper metal cover was resting, as this washer then sits on the shock and distributes the weight.

9. Reinstall shock-and-plate assembly into the van, using the jack under the suspension to fine-tune positioning of the lower bolt hole.

10/7/14

After reading a few posts related to the transmission's potential issues with heating up under certain loads I decided to purchase and install an external transmission cooler.  While I was doing this I also installed a transmission fluid dipstick kit to make it easier to check fluid levels.

10/8/14

Installed a transmission service kit from Blauparts today.    VW doesn't recommend servicing the AT (and didn't during my major service on 9/29/14) in these vehicles but anyone with real world experience does.  From what I can see its a good idea to replace the filter and fluid every 15,000 miles.

10/22/14

Came across an interesting Yahoo Group today named EurovanTDI.   I've been a VW TDI fan for a long time.  This group is moderated by Justin Soares who runs a garage in Oregon that specializes in converting Eurovans to TDIs.   I've joined the forum and am learning more about what's involved to perform a conversion.  Mu engine and drivetrain are in great shape but I would love to have a TDi badge on the rear of my Westy.

12/2/14

I got great news today.   My local VW repair shop owner, Glenn Burton of DeltaV Motorsports sent me an email that he has hired a mechanic that has worked on Westfalia's for over 20 years.   Glenn is great to work with and is willing to work on vehicles at a level that far  surpasses where a dealer would go.   My Westy project just got easier.   

12/9/14

I started on a new project today to equip my Westy with AC power.   

I ordered:

1. New auxiliary battery from Interstate.
2. Inverter, cables and fuses from Amazon:
3. A tie down strap today from GoWesty.com

Here's what I started with under the driver's seat. 

12/29/14

I covered the steering wheel with a leather cover from Amazon.  The cover was not easy to stitch on but it fits really well and feels great under my hands while driving.   Installation took about an hour.   

1/5/15

When I purchased the Westy I noticed that the bottom of the sliding door interior panel was loose. Today I took the panel off to determine what the issue was.   In order to remove the panel I had to do the following.

1. Unscrew the lock knob and remove it.   
2. Remove two small caps and the screws they covered that were about a quarter of the way down from the top of the panel at the front and rear of the door.
3. Purchased a door trim toolkit at Harbor Freight.
4. Started to remove the panel from the bottom of the door and worked my way up to the top using the trim toolkit.

While the panel was removed I took the opportunity to lubricate the locking mechanism with lithium grease and I also replaced the plastic connectors that join the rods from the door lock and door rod to the actuator and locking mechanism. 

Once the panel was removed I noticed that many of the clip holders had popped loose from the door panel.  I elected to remove them all and cleaned the old adhesive off of the holders and the door panel.  I then glued the holders back on to the panel using Gorilla Glue Epoxy.   A few of the clips were slightly damaged so I decided to replace them all.   The clips I used were these from Amazon.

I replaced the door panel by starting at the top of the door and carefully popping the pins back in to the door as I worked towards the bottom.  I reinstalled the screws and hoped the caps back on.  I ordered a few new caps while I was at this stage as I noticed that a couple were missing elsewhere on the trim.